Revision [2948]
Last edited on 2010-12-06 12:51:56 by VincentMathews (unregistered user)Additions:
This is the end result today. I have not removed the protective plastic of the mirror. You can see the mirror is smaller (I left a margin). This means I can use straight wooden strips to reinforce the ribs some more.
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This is the end result today. I have not removed the protective plastic of the mirror. You can see the mirror is smaller (I left a margin). This means I can use straight wooden strips to reinforce the ribs some more.
Revision [2747]
Edited on 2010-10-01 08:57:46 by FritsRinckerDeletions:
Revision [2711]
Edited on 2010-09-22 16:00:19 by LucyEvans (unregistered user)Additions:
[[http://www.elcasinoenlinea.org/ juegos de casino]]
It is not that hard to build a parabolic trough collector, even not for me not being all that handy with tools. I got started a few days ago and am trying to just make one and figure out optimizations as I go while online and playing .
It is not that hard to build a parabolic trough collector, even not for me not being all that handy with tools. I got started a few days ago and am trying to just make one and figure out optimizations as I go while online and playing .
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Revision [2710]
Edited on 2010-09-22 15:58:04 by LucyEvans (unregistered user)Additions:
It is not that hard to build a parabolic trough collector, even not for me not being all that handy with tools. I got started a few days ago and am trying to just make one and figure out optimizations as I go while online and playing [[http://www.elcasinoenlinea.org/ juegos de casino]] .
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Revision [2250]
Edited on 2010-07-07 16:21:36 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
(Not the final version ;-))
Building a parabolic trough mirror
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Building a parabolic trough mirror
Revision [2249]
Edited on 2010-07-07 16:18:06 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
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Revision [2248]
Edited on 2010-07-07 16:16:31 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
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Revision [2247]
Edited on 2010-07-07 16:15:05 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
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Revision [2246]
Edited on 2010-07-07 16:08:25 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
[[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XH8KqST5odc Video]]
Revision [2245]
Edited on 2010-07-07 10:08:37 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
I will get some electronics that I will try to use to control the whole thing (TI msp430 and triacs of picaxe). To be continued.""
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Revision [933]
Edited on 2009-12-10 15:55:55 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
Cost 0,15 ct/Watt
If the thermal energy would be converted into electricity using a turbine (more troughs aligned) with an efficiency of 15% (very conservative) then the cost would be about 1 euro per watt. Using 33% efficiency achievable with state of the art turbines this would be ,5 euro/watt
If the thermal energy would be converted into electricity using a turbine (more troughs aligned) with an efficiency of 15% (very conservative) then the cost would be about 1 euro per watt. Using 33% efficiency achievable with state of the art turbines this would be ,5 euro/watt
Revision [932]
Edited on 2009-12-10 15:52:14 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
=====Cost estimation===== (preliminary)
=====Power estimation=====
Apperture area 1,5 m2
Insolation 600 Watt/m2 (Holland)
Insolation 1400 Kwh/m2/year
Thermal output 900 Watts/hr
Thermal output 2100 Kwh/year
=====Power estimation=====
Apperture area 1,5 m2
Insolation 600 Watt/m2 (Holland)
Insolation 1400 Kwh/m2/year
Thermal output 900 Watts/hr
Thermal output 2100 Kwh/year
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Revision [931]
Edited on 2009-12-10 15:49:46 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
=====Cost estimation=====
1. Triplex for curves 80*120 cm 16 Euro
2. Wooden strips 8 * 180 cm 8*3 = 24 Euro 30 cm
3. 24 * 8 cm pieces 0 Euro (taken from rest material)
4. Glue 5 Euro
5. Mirror 30 Euro
6. Tube support 20 Euro
7. Vacuum tube (heat pipe) 40 Euro
Total 135 Euro
1. Triplex for curves 80*120 cm 16 Euro
2. Wooden strips 8 * 180 cm 8*3 = 24 Euro 30 cm
3. 24 * 8 cm pieces 0 Euro (taken from rest material)
4. Glue 5 Euro
5. Mirror 30 Euro
6. Tube support 20 Euro
7. Vacuum tube (heat pipe) 40 Euro
Total 135 Euro
Revision [930]
Edited on 2009-12-09 14:30:19 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
""
(Mirror with coating still on)
(Mirror with coating still on)
Building a parabolic trough mirror
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(Mirror with coating still on)
Building a parabolic trough mirror
Revision [929]
Edited on 2009-12-09 14:29:44 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
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Revision [928]
Edited on 2009-12-09 14:29:17 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
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Revision [927]
Edited on 2009-12-09 14:27:51 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
To connect the two halves I first drew a piece of the graph that overlaps both. THis I used to check alignment of the two halves. Then I used smal screws to fix them (this could be done with glue and tacks, quicker and stronger). Then I used bolts and these metal rods to connect the curves. This is easier doen with straight strips of solid wood, but I did not make sure the curves where equally thick, so maybe next time.
Below the result with the mirror on it. The lines show what needs to be done still..The red lines are where additional strips will go, I will probably glue them on. The function to keep the aluminium in place. It might be necessary to add a strip along the curve just to keep the metal to the wood under windy conditions.
The blue line is where beams will go to that will support the reciever tube (may be vacuum glass or copper). The idea is to rotate the mirror around the tube, so the connection between the tube and where the water/heat goes does not have to be flexible (the tube will be stationary). The blue supports will also make the whole thing stronger.
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To connect the tow halves I first drew a piece of the graph that overlaps both. THis I used to check alignment of the two halves. Then I used smal screws to fix them (this could be done with glue and tacks, quicker and stronger). Then I used bolts and these metal rods to connect the curves. This is easier doen with straight strips of solid wood, but I did not make sure the curves where equally thick, so maybe next time.
Below the result with the mirror on it. The lines show what needs to be done still..The red lines are where additional strips will go, I will probably glue them on. The funtion to keep the aluminium in place. It might be necessary to add a strip along the curve just to keep the metal to the wood under windy conditions.
The blue line is where bemas will go to that will support the reciever tube (may be vacuum glass or copper). The idea is to rotate the mirror around the tube, so the connection between the tube and where the water/heat goes does not have to be flexible (the tube will be stationary). The blue supports will aslo make the whole thing stronger.
Revision [926]
Edited on 2009-12-09 14:22:17 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
Next up will be to test the mirror focus and to find a way to rock the trough (as it needs to follow the sun (1 axis tracking).. ""
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Revision [925]
Edited on 2009-12-09 14:21:42 by FritsRinckerAdditions:
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